Contemporary Victorian Hair Inspired By American Horror Story

Tools: 

Pintail Comb

Paddle Brush 

Sectioning Clips

Kirby Grips

Curling Tongs

Hairspray

1. Brush through the hair, ensuring there are no knots. 

2. Section the hair with your pintail comb, into a side parting. 

3. Make two barrel curls going away from the parting on the side the hair is parted, about one inch in width and 2 inches in length. Secure with kirby grips as they cool.

4. Make three barrel curls curls away from the parting, of the same size, on the other side of the parting, on top of the head. Secure as they cool. 

5. Curl the remaining hair underneath the curls on both side vertically. 

6. At the back of the hair, divide into three sections vertically. The middle section should be wider, the same length that the sides curls are. Create curls downwards, horizontally. With the two sections on either side, create curls the run vertically down the back of the head. Secure with grips. 

7. Spray with hairspray to hold. 

The next look:

1. Remove the grips that are holding the curls in place. 

2. Manipulate the curls into pin curls, around the head. 

3. Brush the front of the hair into a pincurl. 

4. Secure the pincurls with kirby grips. 

For the next look:

 1. Remove all the pins from the hair. 

2. Shake the hair.

3. Spray with hairsray to keep the look bouffant.

Dark Eyes and Lips.

In Fenella's lesson, we looked at creating a dark eye and lip look. 'Smokey eyes' are used throughout TV, Film and Fashion, as well as daily life. The look can be lighter and more natural for an everyday look, or darker and more extreme. There are many different ways to create a dark eye look, in this lesson I looked at a simple smokey eye, as I can them master this to adapt the shapes and include liners. 

Consultation Notes:

Anna-Maria 

Tanned Complexion, Olive/Yellow Undertones. 

Combination Skin.

No known allergies.

Health and Safety:

Complete a full consultation beforehand. 

Wash hands, and keep all equipment sanitised. 

Cover the model beforehand. 

No double dipping. 

Products:

Cleanser, Toner and Moisturiser.

Eye Primer 

Illamasqua's Translucent Powder

Cream Shadow

Illamasqua Reflections Palette

Eyeliner. 

Optional - Lashes.

Method:

1. Prep the skin with cleanser, toner and moisturiser.

2. Prime the lid, with an eye primer. (Smash box Cosmetics eye primer). Heavily Powder under the eye with Illamasqua's Translucent Powder, so this can catch any excess eyeshadow.

3. Begin with a light, neutral cream shadow, all over and around the lid. This will give the powder shadow something to hold onto.

4. Choose a colour scheme. (I chose to use Illamasqua Reflections Palette). With the mid colour, shadow the eye socket, focusing on the centre of the eyelid, outwards. Concentrate on keeping within the eye shape. Once confident, you can then begin to create shapes etc.

5. Blend the mid colour out, with a small, fluffy kabuki brush.

6. Keep building the colour. Add some black, or darker brown and blend.

7. Apply the lightest shape to the inner corner of the eyelid. 

8. You can begin to shadow lightly under the eye, with the mid tone. 

9. Line the eye with eye liner, this can be blended out to create shape and depth. 

10. Finish with lashes or mascara. 

After the lesson, I went home and practised on myself. I feel a lot more confident after the lesson, so created a darker look with liner, and lashes. I used my Smashbox Cosmetics Double Exposure Palette, and Lashes from Eyelure. 

Dark Lips. 

Products:

Lip Palette

Liner -TIP- Always sharpen the liner between clients.

Powder

Tissue.

Method:

1. Exfoliate the lips - Sugar and water paste is quick and easy.

2. Line the lips. Liner can also be used as a base of colour, to make the lipstick last longer.

3. Apply the lip colour, with a lip brush.

4. Place a tissue on the lips, and then press powder through the tissue. Apply another layer of lip colour, which will now be longer lasting.

As well as practising the eyes, I created a few lip looks, including ombre looks. 

This look is a black liner, alongside MAC's Diva blended out.

Here I used MAC's Nightingale Lip Liner alongside Barry M's Pink to create a soft ombre look. 

This look is MAC Nightingale Lip Liner, with MAC Diva on the lips. 

Creating light scarring using moulds, colouring and attaching to skin.

In our practical with Sue, we looked at using pre-made wounds, and how to apply them. I really enjoyed this lesson, as it focused on prosthetics. 

Health and Safety:

-Complete a consultation with the client beforehand. 

-Wash hands.

-Place cover over the model, to prevent products reaching clothing. 

Products:

ProsAide Adhesive

Gelatine pre-made mould 

Witch Hazel

Cotton Buds

Translucent Powder

Wound Filler

Fake Blood

Kryolan Supracolour

Method:

1. Carry out consultation with the client beforehand. 

2. Clean the area you will be working on, with cleanser and toner. 

3. Apply ProsAide to the skin where the mould will be, as well as the mould itself. The adhesive will be milky-white at first, but you MUST wait until the liquid dries to a tacky, clear film. 

4. Apply the mould to the skin. Press hard on the area, to ensure it has stuck. 

5.Using a cotton bud dipped in witch hazel, work into the edges of the mould. This will slowly dissolve away the edges of the mould, blending it into the skin. 

6.Use the translucent powder to seal any tacky areas. You can now begin to colour the mould. 

7. If the mould does not match the client's skin tone, colour with the UltraFoundation Palette from Kryolan and Powder. If it does match, you can miss this step.

8. Using a spatula, apply some wound filler to your prosthetic. 

9. Using the supra colours, you can colour around the wound to make it look sore.

10. Apply the fake blood using a baby bud. 

11.If desired, using a large paintbrush, flick blood onto the wound.

Evaluation:

In this excersise I found most challenging the blending of the mould to the skin. There was a certain amount of pressure to use before the mould would begin to peel away. I enjoyed this task because I enjoy the Special Effects side of makeup, and how it is achievable to create realistic wounds in a certain amount of time. This practical was time consuming, particularly the blending side of things. Once the wound was blended, I enjoyed the colouring, and applying the blood.  

Creating Estella.

Estella Facechart

Consultation Notes:
Ayelisha - 19
Combination Skin, Pale Complexion with Rosy Undertones.
No known allergies.

Health and Safety:
-Clean hands before working on client.
-Always clean brushes and equipment between clients.
-Check for allergies and complete consultation notes.


Products:
Cleanser, Toner and Moisturiser.
Illamasqua Matte Primer.
Kryolan UltraFoundation Palette -Alabastar.
Kryolan Camouflage Palette.
Illamasqua Sculpting Powder Duo.
Kryolan Brilliant Colour Palette -Shallot, Lavender, White, Pepper, Anis, Ginger and Lemon.
Collection 2000 Mascara.
Illamasqua Translucent Powder.
Kryolan Blush Palette.
Kryolan Lip Palette.
Supracolour Palette.
Vaseline.

Method:

1. Prep the skin with Cleanser, Toner and Moisturiser. 

2. Prime the skin with Illamasqua Matte Primer, to even out the skin. 

3. Apply UltraFoundation in Alabastar, blending outwards into ears and down the neck.

4. Set with Illamasqua Translucent Powder.

5. Contour the face lightly with Sculpting Powder Duo.

6. Apply blush on the cheeks.

7. Using the Supracolours, work into the eye socket with purples, deep reds and blues. Blend out with yellows, orange and greens. Keep in the eye socket, as this will give the most natural look. The places that should be darkest are the bone, as this is where impact hits. 

8. Work into this with the Brilliant Colour Palette in Shallot, Lavender, White, Ginger and Lemon. 

9. Add Vaseline to give shine/swelling.

10. Work into brows with Anis/Pepper.

11. Apply White over the eyelid of other eye, with a small amount of gold supra colour patted over the eye. 

12. Apply mascara lightly over the eyelashes.

13. Finish with a nude/light pink lip colour.

Estella Hairstyle:

1. Start by creating a clean centre parting. 

2. Section the front of the hair using a pintail comb, from just behind the ear, right over the top of the head, to the other. Pin these sections up as you will be dealing with them last.

3. With the back section, section a horseshoe shape from the top of the back of the head, and tie up, creating a ponytail. 

4. Curl the ponytail, and pin up around the bun, creating a bundle of curls in the shape of a bun. 

5. Curl the bottom section of the hair, pinning some strands up loosely and leaving some down.

6. With the two sections at the front of the hair, starting at the centre, curl along the parting, not downwards, to create barrel curls. Repeat until you have curled roughly 3 inches. Leave to cool to set the curl.

7. With the remaining hair, curl, then section the back half and pin it close to the bun. With the remaining hair, sweep sleekly alongside the head, and pin near the bun. 

8. Using the curls onto of the head, create a wave that moves towards the back of the head. 

These are my final images for my Estella character. I am really happy with the outcome of this timed assessment. I managed to finish both the hair and makeup with 15 minutes to spare, which meant I could take my time taking the photographs, and touching up. I feel the hair went really well, as I worried about not finishing it in time, as there is lots of curling to do. I think the hair is historically accurate, as that was what I was aiming for. The makeup went well, I think the bruising looks realistic. However, the model's chest was more tanned than her face, I found this difficult to cover up for the images. I am pleased with the outcome of this assessment, as well as my Miss Havisham.

Creating Miss Havisham - Continuity.

The second assessment focused on continuity. We had to complete the look exactly the same as we had previously. The pressure was on for precision, so to help me, I:

-Wrote up notes on the products and method. 

-Noted what was more time consuming during the initial assessment, so that I could make time for it. 

- A large image of the outcome of assessment 1. 

-Face Chart. 

I am overall really happy with the outcome of these images, I feel I have tried my best to recreate the look exactly. I am particularly happy with the makeup, as I feel the consistency of the dry shampoo on the top of the hair lets it down a little bit. As I am mostly interested in Film/TV Makeup, I have really enjoyed this timed assessment a lot more as I expected. I understand the importance of continuity, and that one of the biggest factors in this is the makeup and hair.

Creating Miss Havisham - Practice looks of Hair and Makeup.

Final Facechart

Miss Havisham: Final Look.

Consultation Notes:

Ayelisha - 19

Combination Skin, Pale complexion with rosy undertones. 

No allergies known. 

Hair- brunette, mid-length.

Health and Safety:

-Check for allergies.

-Complete consultation notes with the client.

-Always wash hands.

-Clean brushes between clients.

-Do not double dip.

Products:

Cleanser, Toner and Moisturiser

Illamasqua Primer

Kryolan Ultra Foundation Palette 

Illamasqua Skin Base (White)

Kryolan Camouflage Concealer Palette

Kryolan Brilliant Colour Palette

Illamasqua Translucent Powder

Kryolan Blush Palette

MAC Lipmix (Black)

How to:

1. Prep the skin. Cleanse, tone and moisturise to create a clean, even base.

2. Prime the skin with Illamasqua Matte Primer. This will even out the skin. 

3. Mix the lightest shade of foundation from the ultra foundation palette, along with Illamasqua white skin base. Focus on the centre of the face, and blend out using a buffing brush. Make sure you cover the ears and neck, to give the look of a natural collection. 

4. Set with Illamasqua translucent powder. 

5. Contour the face with the Kryolan Blush Palette. Build up the colour with the Brilliant Colour Palette, (light brown and dark brown, with hints of grey and black). Work into the eye sockets, jaw line and cheek bones. The aim is to hollow out the face. 

6. With a small angled brush, work into the natural lines of the face with a light brown from the Brilliant Colour Palette. Create the look of wrinkles on the forehead, around the eyes, and lips.

7. Blend the lines with a small fluffy brush. 

8. Apply Black MAC Lipmix with your finger, in the centre of the lips, and blend out. This is not supposed to look clean, so blend out. 

9. Apply White Skin Base to the eyelashes and the brows, to age them. 

Practice 1

Practice1

Practice 1

I want to communicate the idea that Miss Havisham is rotting away inside her own body, she is close to giving up on everything that she has. Her whole life is now dedicated to using Estella as a weapon against all men, and after that is complete, it is her time to go. She is essentially waiting to die. I have used a dark palette to create this look, to portray the element of Gothic in the design. I have enhanced the natural wrinkles of the face using dark greys and warm browns, to keep them as natural as possible rather than theatrical. I have used a contour brush to softly blend out the hollowed eyes and cheek bones on my partner, which also makes the look more realistic. By ageing her further with white eyelashes and eyebrows, this helps to place her in the timeframe. I am going to spritz her hair with dry shampoo to make it dusty, as well as backcombing and letting the curls drop. 

Miss Havisham Hair Style Practise

Products:

-Pintail Comb

-Paddle Brush

-Hair bands

-Hair Grips

-Curling Tongs

-Dry Shampoo

Method:

1. Section the hair into two horizontally across the head, from just behind one ear to behind the other. 

2. With the section of hair at the back of the head, begin a plait from the centre of the back, then wrap the plait around to create a bun. Pull parts of the bun out, to create a dishevelled look.

3. With the front section, create a severe, clean middle parting using a pintail comb.

4. Curl the hair tightly at the sides of the face, so that the curls fall on the cheeks and finish at the chin. Backcomb these to create a messy effect.

5. Spritz the hair with dry shampoo, building up around the roots.

Practice 2

Practice 2

Practice 2

Here I practised the look as a whole, including the hair. By doing this, I know now how the hair ties the look altogether. I have pulled some strands of the hair out of the bun to make it look messy and uncared for. I am really happy with how my idea is moving forward, and am very happy with my final design. I have been able to communicate the Gothic and the emotions faced by Miss Havisham through this look, as I want people to empathise with her. 

Burns

In this practical, we practised creating burns, using Gelatine. Gelatine can be bought in various forms, we practised with Block Gelatine from Kryolan, Gelglyk in a bottle form, and Food Gelatine by Dr.Oetker. You can decide how fresh the burn is, whether it be weeping, old, new, or shiny.

This is a burn created by my tutor on my arm. 

Kit: 

Gelatine

Microwave

Palette Knife

Supra Colours

Powder

Small Brush

Glycerine

Pus

Health and Safety - Do a heat test before applying to the client.

-Always ask the client if they are allergic to anything. 

-Check for skin conditions/infections. 

-Always sanitise hands before working on someone. 

-Always remove product from the palette with a spatula. 

-Brushes are to be cleaned between clients. 

1. Heat the Gelatine. I used Block Gelatine, testing every 10 seconds.

2. Using a palette knife, spread over the area of the skin that will be burnt. It is crucial to blend it out on the outside, or you will get harsh lines. 

3. Pat the Gelatine using the palette knife. This will grab the Gelatine, and pull it up creating lumps, which is the burn effect. 

4. Dry with a hairdryer. 

5. Powder the burn,

6. Start applying the supra colour, using the depth you already have with the Gelatine. Use the supra colours to enhance this, making the burn seem deep. 

7. Fake blood, Pus and Glycerine can now be added to create a weeping blistered burn. 

I am really happy with the outcome of this practical. I need to work on the hard lines on the right side of the burn, but apart from the blending I really enjoyed this and am pleased.